Browsing by Author "Barthelemy, Eric"

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    Wave forced vorticity and dissipation scaling on a rip channeled beach
    (2023) Suarez, Leandro; Cienfuegos, Rodrigo; Michallet, Herve; Barthelemy, Eric
    Rip-currents, commonly observed on natural beaches, are vorticity induced and part of large scale near-shore circulations. The questions arise: how do bathymetric gradients magnitudes relate to rip velocities? how does rip current vorticity scale with wave characteristics and dissipation? What is the dynamics of the large scale 2D vorticity? To address these questions, we utilize a Non Linear Shallow Water model with a shock-capturing scheme. It is validated with preexisting experiments of wave induced rip-currents on uneven bathymetries generated by irregular waves. To do so the enstrophy (spatially averaged square of the vorticity) is shown to be a relevant metric to calibrate the bottom friction coefficient of the model. The numerical study based on a large number of simulations with monochromatic wave forcing shows that the more non-uniform the bathymetry is, the stronger the gradients in wave dissipation are and the stronger the enstrophy is. The rip current velocity is shown to linearly increase with the square root of the local enstrophy. The wave-averaged shallow water vorticity equation terms are evaluated. It is suggested that large scale 2D vorticity dynamics mainly result from an equilibrium between vorticity production, vorticity advection by the circulation and dissipation by bottom friction.& COPY; 2023 Elsevier Masson SAS. All rights reserved.
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    Wave-Breaking Model for Boussinesq-Type Equations Including Roller Effects in the Mass Conservation Equation
    (ASCE-AMER SOC CIVIL ENGINEERS, 2010) Cienfuegos, Rodrigo; Barthelemy, Eric; Bonneton, Philippe
    We investigate the ability of a ID fully nonlinear Boussinesq model including breaking to reproduce surf zone waves in terms of wave height and nonlinear intraphase properties such as asymmetry and skewness. An alternative approach for wave-breaking parameterization including roller effects through diffusive-type terms on both, the mass conservation and momentum equations is developed and validated on regular wave and solitary wave experiments as an attempt to improve wave height and left-right asymmetry estimates. The new approach is able to reproduce wave height decay, and intraphase nonlinear properties within the entire surf zone of spilling breakers without requiring temporal evolution of model parameters.