Barred-beach morphological control on infragravity motion

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dc.catalogadoraba
dc.contributor.authorAlmar, R.
dc.contributor.authorCienfuegos Carrasco, Rodrigo Alberto
dc.contributor.authorGonzalez, Eduardo
dc.contributor.authorCatalán, P.
dc.contributor.authorMichallet, H.
dc.contributor.authorBonneton, P.
dc.contributor.authorCastelle, B.
dc.contributor.authorSuarez, L.
dc.date.accessioned2024-06-10T21:25:29Z
dc.date.available2024-06-10T21:25:29Z
dc.date.issued2012
dc.description.abstractA conceptual analysis of the coupling between bars and infragravity waves is performed combining laboratory experiments and numerical modeling. Experiments are carried out in a wave flume with a barred profile. The Boussinesq fully-nonlinear model SERR1D is validated with the laboratory data and a sensitivity analysis is performed next to study the influence on the infragravity wave dynamics of bar amplitude and location, and swash zone slope. A novel technique of incident and reflected motions separation that conserves temporal characteristics is applied. We observe that changing bar characteristics induces substantial variations in trapped energy. Interestingly, a modification of swash zone slope has a large influence on the reflected component, controlling amplitude and phase time-lag, and consequently on the resonant pattern. Variations of trapped infragravity energy induced by changes of swash zone slope reach 25 %. These changes in infragravity pattern consequently affect short-wave dynamics by modifying the breakpoint location and the breaking intensity. Our conceptual investigation suggests the existence of a morphological feedback through the action of evolving morphology on infragravity structures which modulates the action of short-waves on the morphology itself.
dc.format.extent9 páginas
dc.fuente.origenORCID
dc.identifier.doi10.9753/icce.v33.currents.24
dc.identifier.isbn978-0-9896611-1-9
dc.identifier.urihtpps://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v33.currents.24
dc.identifier.urihttps://repositorio.uc.cl/handle/11534/86694
dc.information.autorucEscuela de Ingeniería; Cienfuegos Carrasco, Rodrigo Alberto; 0000-0001-5768-2477; 8598
dc.issue.numero33
dc.language.isoen
dc.nota.accesocontenido parcial
dc.pagina.final9
dc.pagina.inicio1
dc.relation.ispartofProceedings of 33rd Conference on Coastal Engineering
dc.revistaCoastal Engineering Proceedings
dc.rightsacceso restringido
dc.subjectLongwave dynamics
dc.subjectSandbar
dc.subjectSwash
dc.subjectNearshore
dc.subjectLaboratory experiment
dc.subjectNon-linear Boussinesq wave modeling
dc.subjectRadon transform
dc.subjectIncoming/Outgoing wave separation
dc.subjectInfragravity resonance
dc.subject.ddc620
dc.subject.deweyIngenieríaes_ES
dc.titleBarred-beach morphological control on infragravity motion
dc.typecomunicación de congreso
dc.volumen1
sipa.codpersvinculados8598
sipa.trazabilidadORCID;2024-06-03
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